Saddle fit and balance.  Recognising ill fitting saddles

Saddles made with a ‘tree’ have been around for centuries. The idea being that the

frame ensured level distribution of the riders weight, Making it easier for the horse to

carry weight by even distribution (downward spread of load) of the riders weight. It

also ensures no weight presses on the spinal topline to cause injury and infection,

that could reach the spinal cord.

 In order for saddle tree to do sit level it has to match and has to follow slope of

horses shoulder i.e. width through "rotation" point. matched to width of tree. The

tree is slightly flexible to allow arching and dipping of the back. All the rest of it is

unflexing so and is vital it needs to be needs to be correctly fitted.

     Those who claim to fit that it looks right!  For instance Do they recognise a

good normal undamaged topline? Do you know that a narrow saddle has tree points

of only 10" at front and a wide one 12"  1" out could mean differrence between a

bruised spine or not. We are looking at 2" here between 3 very different sizes of

tree fit for the horse!

  Saddle sitting "Level" only applies when the riders weight is on and the horse is

following through with movement at the walk.

    This is the MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF SADDLE FIT!

 Pommel and cantle aligned Horizontally. Saddle trees are designed to distribute

weight evenly on shape of horse skeletal, the horses back profile dips to different

degrees with different weights of rider, but a correct  saddle will balance pommel

to cantle. (Some exceptions as raised cantle –but the horse will help tell you this)

   Evenly distributing weight with the flocking as standard "cushion" which moves and

settles to accommodate this shape. All saddles need riding in to a horse for 8-20

hours with no numnah to fit perfectly. Does not apply to memory foam panels as

these mould with heat and pressure and self recover.

      The correct size tree would then sit pressing down evenly over the horses

spread of back.  This applies ONLY when riders weight is on, as the saddle itself

is very light in comparison. A saddle sits in place when  correct and is cushioned by

a leather designed, wool flocked or memory foam panel, to protect the horse from

the frame.

The horse must have a good original topline (not spoiled by being raced or ill

fitted) for an engineered level tree of the right width to perform as it was

designed.  This cushion on an unspoiled horse, no muscle wastage, will keep the

horses natural temperature, absorb sweat and then move to fat or muscular

needs of the horses back shape “as he wants it”  thus distributing weight evenly.

It becomes very soft pliable and comfortable when ridden without a numnah,

sheepskins / numnahs are advised for “memory foam” close contact panels.(no

sweat or salt absorbed). The panel allows soft movement to rise and fall of

muscle movement balance makes him very aware of where your weight is

 " Balanced"! and is then able to control his movement in relation to changing

 points of gravity at different paces.

        By good topline I mean not raced, with atrophy caused to front of topline

 muscles, “dips behind shoulders”, or swinging even if 1” too wide causing

swinging and bruising of the spine, heat and swelling 6” behind wither for 4-8”,  or

from weight on the forehand by a fit too wide, that the saddle has been tipping

forward, placing the riders weight to the fore of these muscles. Saddles when

fitted too wide, makes them less stable at the back, they produce excessive

movement to the point of crossing over the lumbar spine, causing problems with

lumbar region and the horse then restricts their hindquarter action just because

they don't want the pain that goes with it.

        This can be corrected, the muscles do not / will not recover from turning

away or getting fat.  Once spoilt the atrophy remains until someone sees the

need for rebalancing the saddle, It will be there until it is remedied.

   I have witnessed a very clever horse, prominently winning, displaying a hop,

pre cantering instead of a smooth transition, solely to throw the saddle back

and get the points of tree off his shoulder. (‘saddle too wide.= points of tree

dropping low into shoulder movement.) How different and much better position

the rider can sit when they can feel balance in a correct saddle, how much

higher he will tuck up his legs with no fear of pain, such as a jab in the shoulders

from long tree points too low and off balance. This horse, as many like him,

will struggle to perform as you would like with incorrect saddle.

          Today’s tendency has been to fit too wide to avoid “pinching” which

occurs as a wide saddle drops and rams up against scapula.

 A well fitting saddle sits evenly on top- the amount of fat protruding around

the edges will have much more to do with your weight or his stage of fitness

and how his muscles lift saddle and your weight than anything to do with

 pinching.!         

        In changing the balance from forehand to then carrying to level can also

be stressful to the horse, so some horses coming into work after a layoff will

find it easier than a hard fit horse. A fit horse’s muscles have shortened to

carry you in a particular struggling way, we are talking about his whole body

and how he tracks up. "Deadening" squashing weight too much on the forehand,

has pushed blood and life out of the front end of his long back muscles and

even affects neck muscles, as well as those in his back legs allowing him to track

up correctly. Your saddle may even be the correct width but may drop into these

atrophied ‘hollows’ continuing to put pressure, on the front and push life blood

 out of the muscle, deadening it still further. 

  What if of all your weight is on his forehand, can it not cause navicular, ringbone, pedelostitis, splints, strains and tendon damage?

        An important aspect >this may need to be gradual re-balance  rather

than level up all at once,  suddenly putting more weight on the back of the saddle

where the muscles are not fit or weight carrying, He may not be used to it! He

may show dislike at first. This in itself can cause a sore muscle area at rear of

saddle if you proceed too fast. A start in a sensitive horse is to use a ‘stephens

geleze’ wither pad,for front atrophy and to level up front.(patented)  This with

its design and holes keep massaging the atrophied muscles, it allows blood to

stay in the area and pumps blood around in the muscles with gentle action.

It’s a start even on an incorrect fitted saddle as it will bring saddle up slightly

in front and shift the balance slightly.

   The aim is to eventually to have a level (pommel to cantle ridden saddle)

in which the horse can work whilst using his natural muscle as a whole, and

having a rider in balance with his gaits. To use a ‘dropped’ panel or

‘wither gussets’ in a  "specially made" saddle is no longer the way forward.

This because full on pressure on the whole surface squashes all the blood out!

of the muscles and is not conducive to recovery of the muscles,

 ‘pushes all blood out.’ 

    You must correct your horses physical shape, by striving towards a level fit.

When the ‘Geleze Pad’ can be removed and you are riding level without it

(6-12months for full recovery) then his topline will have recovered and the gel

no longer needed. Has even been known to tip saddle back after 1 years use,

perhaps then the answer is a full pad then? to keep the muscles happy and fit?

I recommend to use these on older horses who do not keep condition easily!

Also on sensitive thin skinned fit horses in combination with the riser wither pad

during rebalancing! Now I have been told the thinner version with smaller holes

has been designed as shoe accesories! for us! I must cut one up!

       ON REBALANCING giving you and your horse the optimum chance, a

longer useful life for your horse and effortless riding for yourself? The decision

should be yours- do you want to restore this topline and give your horse a chance

to prove he can be better and for you to enjoy being carried by the horse in a

ore effortless manner, Or are you happy to have the horse as he is?

     Re-balancing and co-ordination will not happen overnight and his topline

will restore very gradually dependent on weight and time ridden, you may have

to  ‘pad –up’ well or use geleze full pad, to keep his back, where it was not

before full weight bearing, at the back of the saddle from becoming bruised

or sore. Thin skinned horses can be hardened with surgical spirit but not on

broken skin, at the back of the saddle. You have to treat the horse as getting

fit to carry you from scratch. He will be a better mover, not drop a leg and

have fences down and lift his feet confidently higher, and will move forward

freely.

      You may not recognise ‘hollows’ sometimes this atrophy is not noticed

until ½ hour or more into a ride, your saddle may drop and even slip back.

You may not recognise a good topline from a poor one, Look and learn.

Experience will tell. Watch young flatter backed unbroken horses or show

horses stripped down in ring? These move well because they have muscle to do

this as nature intended.   So how vital is it to have a level correct saddle on

a young unridden horse in order to maintain his topline? I will leave common

sense to you!

Watch this space For When I explain "Horses Do Not change shape" as in

Size of saddle for Horse. One saddle  on  I horse for life. Older riders know this!